Materials Design for Sustainability and Regeneration Aotearoa New Zealand
This work explores approaches to materials design research for sustainability and regeneration within Aotearoa New Zealand. It focuses, in particular, on the re-invigoration of harakeke based industries. My position within this work as Tangata Te Tiriti, is one of partnership. I am privileged to be working alongside Rangi Te Kanawa (Ngatai Manipoto), who is leading research towards harakeke textiles, alongside a growing group of researchers in textile design, engineering, chemistry, climate activism, agriculture and environmental economics.
Harakeke is an indigenous and taonga species, which many iwi, hapū and other Māori entities identify as having special cultural significance. It is viewed as having strong potential to support environmental sustainability (Taiao) through: remediation of waterways; as alternative land-use transition for climate change; emission reduction planning on Māori farms; and for compelling contributions to social health (Oranga) and cultural health (Hauora). Because of this and the rich traditions (Mātauranga) of use, with pā harakeke having revered status in many communities, there is a widely held aspiration to embrace harakeke within future Māori enterprise, including renewed harakeke fibre (muka) and textiles industry.
Our latest project ‘Te Aho Tapu Hou’, funded by Ministry of Business Innovation and Enterprise (MBIE) Vision Mātauranga Fund (2021-2024), looks to develop the technology and processes to take muka fibre - the fibre that can be released from harakeke - to an industrially spun yarn for the sustainable manufacture of high-value textiles. Rangi Te Kanawa (Ngati Maniapoto), Massey University and AgResearch are working in partnership, along with Region Net Positive, to bring together Mātauranga (Māori knowledge) in traditional muka processing, and western fibre science to generate the knowledge required to adapt and optimise existing wool processing technology and infrastructure for muka fibre processing.
This unfolding work has become part of an evolving interdisciplinary network of researchers looking to explore the environmental, social, economic and cultural benefits of a renewed harakeke industry in Aotearoa New Zealand.
Publications
Kane, F., Kilford, A. and Withers, S. (Pending, accepted for publication 2024). Interconnected Material Futures: Aotearoa New Zealand and the Pacific Region. In Jefferies. J, Jiang. K, and Norris, L (Eds.), Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World Textiles. Volume 10, Textile Futures. Bloomsbury, London.
Kane, F., Kilford, A., Withers, S., & Tanya, R. (2023). Mapping the benefits of collaborative textile research in Aotearoa New Zealand. In https://doi.org/10.21606/TI-2023/cv. Loughborough University in London: Design Research Society. doi:10.21606/TI- 2023/cv
Kane, F., Withers, S., & Kilford, A. (2021, July 22). Interconnected Futures: Material practices and knowledge-based systems in the academy. In R. M. Leitão, I. Men, L. - A. Noel, J. Lima, & T. Meninato (Eds.), Pivot Conference Proceedings 2021 DISMANTLING / REASSEMBLING (pp. 231-243). London: Design Research Society (DRS). doi:10.21606/pluriversal.2021.0025
Kane, F., Ruka, T., Kilford, A., Le-Guen, M. J., Brorrens, P., & Komene, K. (2020). Exploring a place-based approach to developing new materials for sustainable futures: Natural fibre composites in New Zealand. In https://www.textile- intersections.com/proceedings/#page-content. Loughborough University in London: Loughborough University. doi:10.17028/rd.lboro.9724661.v1
Kane, F., Ruka, T., Kilford, A., Le-Guen, M. J., Brorrens, P., & Komene, K. (2019). Harakeke Nonwovens and Biocomposites in 'Intersections Exhibition: Collaborations in Textile Design Research', Textile Design Research Group at Loughborough University in collaboration with the Royal College of Art and Imperial College London, 12 - 14 September 2019 [Design]. Loughborough University. Retrieved from https://www.textile-intersections.com/exhibition/#page-content
Kane, F., Ruka, T., Kilford, A., Le-Guen, M. J., Brorrens, P., & Komene, K. (2019). Harakeke Nonwovens and Biocomposites in 'Towards a Critical Rurality', Rural Design Week, 31 May - 9 June, San Potito, Sannitico, Italy [Design]. San Potito Sannitico, Italy. Retrieved from https://www.ruraldesignweek.com/selected-works/
Kane, F., Smith, H., Te Kanawa, R., Ruka, T. M. T. M. T. R., & Kilford, A. (2019). Learning from Harakeke: Towards a Network of Knowledge for Textile Design in Aotearoa New Zealand. In K. Fletcher, L. St Pierre, & M. Tham (Eds.), Design and Nature: A Partnership (1 ed., pp. 72-78). London, United Kingdom: Routledge. doi: 10.4324/9781351111515
Kane, F. (2018). 'Roots and Rivers: Textile Thinking for a Sustainable Future' in Forschung au den Übergängen/Research at the Transitions, Number 8, May 2018, Hochschule Luzern - Design and Kunst und die Autoren.
Kane, F., Ruka, T., Te Kanawa, R., Smith, H. (2018). 'Weaving a Sustainable Future for Aotearoa New Zealand: Learning from Harakeke', Textiles and Place Symposium, 12 - 13 April 2018, Manchester School of Art, UK. (https://www.textileandplace.co.uk/uploads/1/0/7/7/107727063/textile_and_place_2803weebley.pdf)
Kane, F. (2017). Materials design for sustainability: Connecting with local resource flows through the development of flax-based composites. Craft Research, 8(1), 101. doi: 10.1386/crre.8.1.101_1